If this is your first visit to Jerez to see its Holy Week celebrations, you’ll no doubt be interested to know that thirty-four confraternities hold processions during Easter. As Jerez is a fairly large city (200,000 inhabitants), the churches from where the confraternities set out on any given day are often quite far away from each other. Therefore, we’re sure you would appreciate a list of recommended priorities: the most spectacular procession to watch as it leaves its respective church, the most typical street, the procession accompanied by the most “saetas” (Flamenco-style religious songs), and so on. It is better to see just a few of the more impressive moments than to try and see everything on offer, as you’d simply get too tired. Even the keenest, most experienced locals never manage to see everything. You can also find a spot somewhere around the start of the Official Route, as all the processions will eventually pass by on their way to pay penitence in the Cathedral, which is the main reason behind the processions. Another way to see them all, providing you don’t mind staying up late, is to wait until the brotherhoods come out of the Cathedral. The ceremonial platforms carried in each procession are even more spectacular at night, as the innumerable candles make it a truly unforgettable experience. After witnessing the candle-lit processions solemnly marching away from the Cathedral, you’ll certainly wish to return to Jerez the following Easter.
Closed to Traffic
Several weeks before the Easter processions, work commences on erecting the spectator stands and stalls. As from the week prior to Easter, known as the “Week of Passion”, most of the Official Route and surrounding streets are closed to traffic. An hour before each confraternity leaves its respective church, it is impossible to drive a car down any of the nearby streets. Even the buses have to change their usual routes, so a special bus service comes into operation between Alameda Cristina (Cristina Boulevard) and the outlying neighbourhoods. We recommend that you plan your itinerary to take into account the transport limitations, and that you wear comfortable shoes and clothing. Eating out, however, is never a concern: there are plenty of cafés, bars and restaurants to choose from, many offering a daily set menu that includes some of the finest local dishes and desserts specially prepared for Holy Week. No visitors should leave Jerez without at least having tried “soldaditos de pavía” (strips of hake or cod coated in flour and fried – the name comes from the colour of the uniforms worn by soldiers, or “soldados”, who won the Battle of Pavía) or “torrijas” (fried bread soaked in honey, milk and sherry). Visit the temples It is traditional to spend the mornings visiting some of the churches from where the brotherhoods set out for their evening processions, and which they also use as their headquarters. The ceremonial platforms will have already been adorned with candles, flowers and other decorative features, ready to be carried out of the church. You can also admire all the details of the fabulous statues, the expressions and gestures of the Romans, Apostles and Executioners, all beautifully recreated by skilled artists, as well as the intricate metalwork and embroidery on the ceremonial carriages. In addition, all the items and insignia carried in the processions are also on display in the churches, such as the Guiding Cross, 'farol” lamps, “bocinas” (horns) insignia, standards, Book of Rules, “Senatus” and “vara” insignias, candlesticks, etc., all symmetrically laid out to form what is known as the Altar of Insignias. It is worth noting that many of the churches are only open at times of worship. Such morning visits are also a great opportunity to see the centuries-old columns, pillars and vaulted ceilings, as well as the altars and their superb statues and adornments, many dating back to the 17th and 18th century. Recommendations for children Most of the confraternities set out from neighbourhoods located beyond the historic city centre or from areas with spacious squares and wide streets that are ideal for children. Many processions set out in the afternoon, which is an added advantage for visitors with children. Another option is to watch the processions along the Official Route: every day, and well before the processions start, limited seating is available for hire, allowing you to enjoy the processions in greater comfort. |
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